Emma's Class Field Trip to Inyenyeri in Gisenyi

Emma’s teacher, Mr. Thies, is young and dynamic and the kids just adore him. Already this semester, their class has hosted two family movie nights at the school and taken two field trips—one to Akagera Game Park (overnight) and on Tuesday to Gisenyi. In Gisenyi, the kids visited the site of a bio-fuels processing “plant” that also manufactures fuel efficient stoves for villagers accustomed to cooking with charcoal or on an open fire. These stoves produce a gas-like flame that is constant and burns cleaner than other fuels. The owner/director of the project is a visionary American, Eric Reynolds. His ambition is to get three of these stoves into every Rwandan home currently using charcoal or wood. He’d also like to eventually power electricity generating plants using these bio-fuels. At the moment though, the operation is in its initial phases. The machinery to manufacture the stoves is on the ground and the local staff is learning how to use these to produce the stoves. The villagers are being enticed into bringing in the raw materials that are needed to produce the fuel pellets. The fuel pellets are a mixture of dried banana leaves, eucalyptus leaves and native grasses, branches and just about anything else that can be burned. The stipulation is that no trees are destroyed in the process. Deforestation is a serious problem in Rwanda and this project aims to stem the cutting of trees for firewood. It’s a noble, ambitious effort and the kids were keen on seeing the production facilities and asked intelligent and thoughtful questions. We wish Eric and all of those involved in the project great success. Access the following link to find out more about what the folks at Inyenyeri do: http://www.facebook.com/Inyenyeri?sk=info Of course, being from Louisiana where we fire up the fronds during sugar cane harvest and produce tons and tons of bio-mass in the grinding of the cane, we saw all kinds of applications for the use of this technology back home. Perhaps someone can capitalize on this idea back home. Below: Eric holding stove as he explains the project. Pellets made from the dried bio-mass to be used in the stoves for cooking.

Gorilla mother with infant

Mother holding tightly on to her offspring.

GORILLAS

Gus and Reid went up to see the gorillas last weekend. The girls aren’t old enough and aren’t allowed to do the trek. Reid was at first skeptical. Permits are extremely expensive especially for foreigners. We’re able to buy them for half the price because we’ve got the resident’s visa---still that’s $250 US a pop. Additionally, although it’s possible to leave Kigali at an ungodly hour and make the 2-3 hour trip up to the Volcanoes National Park, it’s best to spend the night and head to the park at a more leisurely pace for the 7 am rendez-vous time. Accommodations in this country aren’t cheap anywhere, so that has to be factored into the expense of the trip. Petrol is about $6-$7 US / gal and driving conditions are insane to say the least. Understandably, Reid was reluctant to undertake that trip again. However, both returned convinced of the worthiness of the venture.

I asked Gus to record his impressions for the blog but he’s too lazy. So, I’ll have to convey his experience vicariously for our readers. The group they were assigned is one that inhabits the outer ranges of the park, the Susa Group. They’re the furthest out and the drive to the hike start point is about an hour and a half on a pretty poorly maintained dirt road. It’s another 45 minutes to an hour hike to the place in the forest where they hang out. This is a large group of about 33 individuals with about 5 silverbacks. Reid and Gus were able to see 3 of them. There were also a couple of females with infants ranging from 4 days old to 4 months old. The gorillas were calmly munching on vegetation. The guides continuously made grunting noises similar to the noises gorillas make showing contentment. The mothers held their babies closely. Some of the juveniles performed a few antics, but for the most part the experience consisted of the gorillas ignoring the humans while they went along with their daily routine. One little guy got a bit close but was waved away by the guide.

Reid’s skepticism was completely dispelled and he noted how magical an experience it was to be in the wilds with a 300 pound silverback gorilla 6 ft away with no fence, barrier or partition separating man and beast. The gorillas are truly one of the few great natural resources that Rwanda possesses. They bring in millions of dollars to the economy in terms of tourists buying permits, paying for accommodations, spending money on food and souvenirs, drivers and petrol. They unfortunately are under great pressure from loss of habitat, poaching, and disease. It’s quite a balancing act that has to take place to keep all the elements in equal proportion and not letting one element tip the scales. How long Rwanda can continue to do so is anybody's guess.

Our Stay at the Paradis Malahide

From Volcanoes National Park we traveled to a town called Gisenyi. It’s been given another name in this post-genocide era, but most people still refer to it by Gisenyi. Gisenyi sits at the northern end of Lake Kivu. We’d been to the southern end earlier in the year. It must be said that the southern end is much more beautiful and less development than this area but Gisenyi still has its attributes. We stayed at a little place called the Paradis Malahide about 6 km south of the town itself. It’s a quirky little place nestled among the volcanic rocks that line the lake’s shore. Although our accommodations weren’t the greatest given that we were housed in the “apartments” and could hear all of the stirrings of the guests above us, the free standing rondavels offered more privacy and seclusion from the noise of other guests. There is a small, well-maintained beach with lounge chairs under palm umbrellas. The bird life is extraordinary as the place is well frequented by kingfishers, ibises, waxbills, cormorants, etc. The kids had a great time chasing waves and birds. We parents were able to relax and soak up some rays. Evenings are chilly and the staff lights a fire in a huge fire pit in the lounge where visitors gather to have a drink and converse before dinner. Dinner costs extra but breakfast is part of the room package. Breakfast is served out in the “gardens” which have a view unto the lake. It consists of rounds of toast with butter and homemade pineapple spread, eggs cooked to your specifications, true French style crepes, fruit, tea and coffee all served in wooden and clay vessels. It is hands-down the best breakfast we’ve ever had in Rwanda. We felt like kings as the staff just kept shuttling dishes from the kitchen to our table non-stop. Having breakfast served to us in such a setting was indeed akin to paradise. Upon our departure, the owner, Odette, exquisitely dressed in African garb, handed us two packages to take with us. One contained enough crepes for all of us to nibble on in the car and the other was a container of the home-made pineapple spread we had oooh and aahhed over. So you can imagine that we highly recommend the Paradis Malahide. Just ask for the rondavel if you stay there. Above: Bird's eye view of breakfast before the arrival of eggs and crepes. Bates Clan having lunch in the gardens of Paradise.

Le Bambou Gorilla Lodge

While in the Virungas, we stayed at a lodge called Le Bambou Gorilla Lodge in Kinigi. Upon arrival we met the owner who also happens to be a member of Parliament. We were immediately served with spiced tea while checking in. This hit the spot given that the temperature was quite cool and the elevation so high that we felt like we were among the clouds. Each “room” is a little cottage unto itself complete with fire place. Needless to say we availed ourselves of the fireplace quite early in the evening. It’s always surprising to muzungus that one can freeze one’s butt off in Africa, but it’s something we experienced both in Namibia and now in Rwanda. We rather enjoyed it though because the temperature in Kigali is relatively constant year round and so we felt like we had a taste of fall weather, at least temporarily. The lodge also served some of the best soups we’ve ever had. This too hit the spot as the heating in the dining room consisted of hot coals in terra cotta pots placed strategically around the tables. In the afternoons, we were treated to a performance of dancing and singing by a local troop of youngsters. The “star” among the group was a small boy with a big voice, what we like to term the “voice of Africa”. His showmanship was remarkable for one so young in age. It was clear that he loved what he was doing and did it well. The kids were even able to get the muzungus to participate and dance along with them.

Located within a 10-12 minute driving distance from the entrance of the Volcanoes National Park, with attentive service and quaint little cottages nestled among an explosion of flowers, we felt like this little lodge was worth the expense. Additionally, the variety of birdlife kept Gus and the girls busy for hours on end photographing the different species attracted by the flora. There was even a volleyball net and ball provided by the staff and we got to exercise our cold muscles with a bit of a 4 man game. Annie was too interested in the birds to play.

Reid's Dream Machine

Another view of Reid's Dream Machine. Reid claims that the modelof Rover he'll eventually acquire will be even better equipped than this model! The list of accessories Reid is citing would probably cost the equivalent of the GDP of some of the world's smaller countries. He'd better find another job if he thinks we'll ever swing this.

Golden Monkey Tracking in the Virungas

The kids had the week of Oct 15-23 off from school so we headed north to a part of Rwanda we hadn’t seen before—the Virungas. The Virunga Mountains contain a number of extinct as well as active volcanoes. They are also home to the endangered Mountain Gorillas and the rare golden monkeys. Although Augustus is just old enough to visit the gorillas, the girls aren’t so we opted for the hike to see the golden monkeys. There are about 2 or 3 groups that have been habituated to humans and one can get really up-close with these guys out in the wild, although touching is not permitted.

It’s advisable to head to park headquarters and pay in advance because reporting time in the morning is 7 am. It’s also very chaotic as most of the park patrons are there for the gorillas and the guides spend a good deal of time trying to organize the groups before heading out to their respective start points. Our start point was a little village about 8 minutes away from the headquarters. We walked through a number of potato fields toward the forest. Having rained heavily the day before, it was quite muddy. Emma had rubber boots and faired the best. It was also quite cool and we were glad of the several layers of clothing we had piled on. We entered the bamboo forest at the edge of the cultivation where a sizable rock wall has been constructed to keep the buffalo from intruding on the farms. We could already see the monkeys foraging for vegetation in the tree tops from the entry point. When we got into the bamboo thicket itself, we could see the little guys were just everywhere. Hikers are allowed to spend an hour within observing the troop. We got to see them jumping through the trees, grooming each other and foraging for their favorite delicacy, tender bamboo shoots. Apparently, consumption of the bamboo shoots is somewhat akin to consuming alcohol—our guide likened it to drinking beer.

Because we have a resident visa, we were able to pay a reduced admission of $65/person. The fee for non-residents is $100 US. For a family of five, that’s quite a chunk of change just for admission. We were in a group of about 20 whose nationalities varied from European to Australian to American. We also stayed in a cool lodge (blog post to follow on that) as arriving from Kigali for a 7 am rendez-vous is virtually impossible, although some do. So, it was a nice outing for the kids and they got to enjoy a rarity that may not exist within the next 50 years. Was it worth the expense is debatable, however. I’m still trying to justify spending that kind of money in a place whose average per capita income is around $900US /year. Reid says it’s all part of the redistribution of the wealth burden that we muzungus must shoulder! Not sure, though that the wealth is reaching those who are in need of it most, unfortunately.

Emma's Class Field Trip--Akagera National Park

Emma’s 5th grade class went on a field trip this past Thursday and Friday to Akagera National Park. Akagera is located in the eastern portion of Rwanda. It is home to an amazing variety of birds and some big game. Akagera suffered greatly during the genocide and the ensuing violence, so it hasn’t got the sheer volumes of wildlife that other parks in East Africa are noted for. It is also a victim of human encroachment as the population of Rwanda continues to rise and arable land becomes more and more scarce.

Reid volunteered to go along even though our little Toyota Rav 4 is not the most spacious vehicle around. It’s a good thing too since one of the parents backed out at the last minute. So, 13 kids and 4 chaperones crowded into 3 vehicles and made the three hour trek to Akagera with tents, sleeping bags and cooking gear shoved into every nook and cranny of each 4 X 4.

When the class arrived, it was pouring rain, but it subsided after a short while enabling everyone to make camp. Meanwhile back in Kigali, the moms were praying fervently hoping the kids weren’t being subjected to the torrential downpour complete with hail that was buffeting Kigali. Fortunately for the kids, they weren’t. Here, Annie, Gus and I spent an exciting evening running back and forth between the kitchen and the dining room as we retrieved pot after pot to catch the leaks from the roof. By evening’s end we counted 10 pots positioned on or around the dining room table.
After a morning breakfast of Dutch pancakes provided by the father of one of the boys in the class who incidentally owns a completely outfitted LandRover Defender, the kids went on a game drive through the park. The kids spotted giraffes, zebra, wart hogs and some sort of gazelles. Emma indicated that while the quantity and variety of game couldn’t match our Namibia experience, it was really fun to go camping with the whole class as a field trip.

By the way, Reid returned really envious of Johan’s Rover and is even now making plans to get his hands on one and outfit it with all the accoutrements---awning, two roof-top tents, refrigerator, winch, spare fuel tanks, yada, yada, yada…..We haven’t heard the end of it since his return!

Pictured above are the kids on Johan’s Rover at the entrance to Akagera.

Do You Live on Bourbon Street?

We’ve been having coffee at the Bourbon Café for a while now. The Bourbon has several locations in Kigali as well as in the US—Boston & D.C., I believe. I have been meaning to find out how such a name was selected. I mentioned in an earlier post that there is even a sprinkling of New Orleans memorabilia throughout the African décor. So, I finally asked while paying my bill the other day. I explained that I was from Louisiana and that New Orleans, the city that is host to the famous drag, was in my state. The manager thought that Bourbon Street was in San Francisco. Unaware of whether or not San Francisco does have a Bourbon Street (Scott can you help me out on that?), I let him know that THE Bourbon Street was a New Orleans icon. The staff then asked me if I lived on Bourbon Street. Well, I guess I turned about 10 shades of red on that one. NO, it isn’t exactly residential and I proceeded to describe the type of businesses that ply their trade on Bourbon. Now it was their turn to be shocked. It seems like the story is like this (at least according to the manager, I’ll have to do some fact checking on this I am sure): When the Belgians first colonized Rwanda, the type of coffee they brought along for cultivation was called “Bourbon”. In fact, the café is not just a café, it actually serves the coffee grown and produced by the Bourbon cooperative of coffee farmers. The packaged coffee produced by the cooperative can be found in just about any of the supermarkets around. It is exceedingly expensive, however, and that is perhaps due to the fact that most of the crop is destined for export.
So there you have it: Bourbon Street meets Bourbon Café, Kigali Rwanda (and the ensuing shock on both sides. Mom, please send me some tourist info on Bourbon Street so that I can give to the manager and enlighten him).

Here's what Wiki has to say about Bourbon Coffee: Bourbon coffee is a type of coffee produced from the Bourbon cultivar of the Coffea arabica species of coffee plant. Bourbon coffee was first produced in Réunion, which was known as Île Bourbon before 1789. It was later taken by the French to mainland Africa and to Latin America, and is now one of the two most popular Arabica coffees grown worldwide, the other being Typica coffee.[1]

Bourbon coffee is usually produced at heights between 1,000 and 2,000 meters (3,281 – 6,562 ft) and gives a 20-30% higher yield than Typica, but produces a similar quality of coffee.

Livonia High Students Come Through Again

I thought I had lost this photo when the hard drive of our computer was wiped out. I found it among my archived emails, so although late, I want to publicly thank Kristie Langlois and the Livonia High Jr. FBLA Club for their efforts in collecting children's books for the Kigali Public Library. They were received in good condition during the summer and were much appreciated by the Rotary Club which is spearheading the library project here. This is to be a public-private partnership with the Rwandan Government and working out the governance structure and details of administration has been a slow process. Progress, however, is being made albeit slow and books have been arriving from major donors as well as smaller donors. Thanks to acquaintances, friends and family that sent items.

Woman Know Your Place

Gifts offered to the bride's family definitely indicative of what the wife's role in the marriage should be.

Peached Whale

We attended the introduction ceremony of our housekeeper’s daughter yesterday. The introduction is typically held a bit before the actual church wedding, but my housekeeper’s daughter was ‘introduced’ in the morning and was then married in the afternoon. The introduction ceremony took place here in Kigali, but the wedding took place in Kibuye, a town several hours away. We decided to fore go the actual wedding.

My housekeeper insisted that I wear the traditional garb of wedding attendees. The attire harkens to the days when Rwanda was ruled by kings. They wore toga-like ensembles of sparkling white cloth, tied at the left shoulder. These days the cloth can be of any color and cottons have been replaced with polyester, rayon, nylon, etc. My housekeeper borrowed one of these for me to wear. It’s essentially a one size fits all model as the skirt is basically a large rectangle of cloth with a drawstring through the top to tie around the waist. The cloth is gathered and bunched to fit smaller waists or drawn out along the string to cover larger waists. I don’t exactly have the heft and bulk of the typical African Mami, so there was a lot of cloth gathered at my waist, ironically giving the impression that I did. The sheer wrap of matching fabric, just another large rectangle of cloth, is knotted at the left shoulder. My ensemble was of a printed peach fabric. Peach is not a color I would ever choose for myself. Needless to say I looked like a “peached” whale! Judge for yourself, see photo. My family is absolutely forbidden from e-mailing me any snide remarks.

It was a very nice ceremony replete with all sorts of traditional gestures that are made back and forth from groom’s side to bride’s side. Unfortunately, a great deal of it was lost on us because we don’t speak Kinyarwandan, but we were able to figure out the basics. There was no doubt, irrespective of the language barrier, about what the woman’s role in the marriage would be when the groom’s family presented the bride’s family with a hoe and the modern day equivalent of a water calabash (yellow plastic 5 gallon container). Farming and water collection are still considered women’s work round these parts!

Pelicans & Bats

One of the cool things about Kigali is the fact that there is an abundance of avian creatures that live amongst the tall buildings, crazy traffic and general mayhem that accompanies most African cities. Kigali is teeming with flowering vines, banana trees, shrubs, etc. These play host to a large diversity of birds. As witnessed by the majority of our blog postings, birds play a significant role in keeping us occupied and entertained here.

One of the most entertaining sights in the city is the flock of White Pelicans that inhabits the conifers on the street corner across from the Ecole Belge (Belgian School). Reid’s office is in the vicinity, so we get to see these stately creatures daily as they roost near the traffic light. Housed on the third floor of the building, Reid’s large picture window view encompasses the birds’ flight path. It’s not unusual to visit him and see the image of a large Pelican advancing across the frame as it comes in for a landing in the nearby trees.

Rwanda, being landlocked, seems like an improbable host to these fellows, but they apparently feed on the ponds of Tilapia being farmed commercially in the area. They appear to be healthy and well fed and so must be getting enough to eat to keep them calling downtown home.

The area around the presidential palace, also in what is essentially downtown Kigali, plays host to a very large colony of fruit bats. There might even be two separate colonies as the bats can be found in the trees lining two separate streets several blocks apart. The trees virtually drip with specimens. Additionally, they make a really strange screeching sound that’s somewhat of a cross between a pig and a bird emanating from the hundreds if not thousands of winged mammals. For a while, we thought they had been displaced because of all of the construction transpiring in the area, but they've recently reappeared. Rwanda has pretensions of being the African Singapore and the hotels, office buildings, and skyscrapers seem to be going up with complete abandon. Hopefully, Kigali can retain some of its verdant charm in the process and the bat colony can remain as a wonderful curiosity and tourist attraction.

Want to be a Millionaire?

The current exchange rate is 600 RwF to the US dollar. The largest denomination in circulation is the 5000 Franc note. So when transferring money from our US account to our Rwandan account, the figures are in the millions. A couple of thousand US dollars translates to millionaire status here! Unfortunately, the cost of living is exceedingly high and so even though we’re “millionaires” we find it difficult to purchase $12 boxes of Kellog’s Cornflakes!

Since we pay virtually everything in cash here, we’ve got to take out considerable amounts when it’s time to pay the staff, lunch bills, ballet fees or even purchase petrol (about $6.80 /gallon) and electricity. Frequently, the bank is devoid of the 5000 Franc note as was the case today. We were given our withdrawal, about $800 US, in 2000 Franc bills. Needless to say, getting that amount of cash in what essentially amounts to $2 bills represents quite a wad. Can’t help but feel like we’re akin to bank robbers walking out with huge bundles of currency. Can’t exactly stuff the below pictured bundles in one’s pockets either. It’s even difficult enough to get it into my purse!

Well millionaire status will be short-lived, we’re now on the backside of this puppy and are down in the teens on the number of weeks we have left in country. We’re looking forward to buying Cheerios in the huge family size as one of the first things we do upon our return! Oh and carrying far less cash on our person….

Bountiful Bigodi

An overview of Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary.

Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary protects the 4 square kilometer Magombe Swamp and is a haven for birds butterflies and a number of primates. We took a 3-hour tour and the following is just a taste of what you can see at Bigodi.

A mated pair of Black-and-white-casqued Hornbills.

A Black and White Colobus Monkey.

We think that the 2 monkeys are what we have them listed as, but we are not quite sure.

The Red-tailed Colobus monkey.

The Red-headed monkey.

Chimps' Nest

How'd you like to run into one of these guys on your leisurely stroll up to the lodge?

The Bates Clan high among the boughs of the trees on the porch of one of the tree house cottages offered at the Chimps' Nest. Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately, these could only accommodate 2 people, so we ended up in the family cottage. It would have been a real challenge getting all of our luggage up the steps to the room far above the forest floor.

Just a small sampling of the bazillions of butterflies at the Chimps' Nest.

From Katara and Queen Elizabeth, we headed North and East to Kibale National Forest. This is a rainforest that is host to a number of primate species, bazillions of butterfly species and birds! We stayed on the edge of the forest at a lodge called the Chimps' Nest. Our cottage was a 15 minute walk down from the main lodge building along an earthen path and across a board walk. The cottage stood on the banks of a creek from which our wash water was taken by the staff and warmed in a wood-fired donkey. I hope we don't end up with any kind of skin lesions or parasites as a result! The accommodations and food (aside from the salads) weren't all that great, but the location was killer.

The butterflies were so thick upon our arrival that we spent over an hour taking photos of the different species hovering near our cottage and along the foot path. In the morning, we woke to baboons in the trees across from our cottage staring us in the face. They also liked to hangout on the board walk leading to from the creek to the lodge. We were often surprised coming around the bends of the path by a few members of the troop foraging. What an amazing experience.

Other interesting sights at Queen Elizabeth

A beautiful sunset over the Kazinga Channel.

A crocodile.

A Waterbuck.

Elephants enjoying themselves at the water/mud hole.

A baby and a mama hippo in the Kazinga Channel.

A Cape Buffalo.

An elephant reaching for a tree branch.

Crossing the Equator

Crossing the equator. Bates trio pose at the equator monument in UGANDA. Papa took the liberty of relieving himself amongst the roadside brush, hence his absence from the photo. He is now bragging that he peed on the equator.

Birds of Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

A trio of Pied Kingfishers resting at the boat launch.

A Goliath Heron, which puts Louisiana's Blue Heron to shame.

A Saddle-billed Stork.

An African Pygmy Kingfisher.

A Woodland Kingfisher.

Both spotted on the way to the boat tour of the Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth Park.

An unidentifiable species of owl. We think it is a Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, but we aren't quite sure. Help us out here Mr. Larkin for some confirmation of our suspicions! Even after forking out the money for a bird book we are still having trouble.

A Long-crested Eagle caught in flight. It wasn't easy but well worth the effort.

The Malachite Kingfisher. Sorry it's so blurry the boat driver wouldn't stop for anything!

The African Fish Eagle.

Our Stay at Katara

From Lake Bunyonyi, we traveled north to the Kichwamba Escarpment where we stayed at Katara Lodge. Although a little pricey for a family of 5, it was well worth the expense. The manager is a young German fellow who sported a French moniker, Pascal. He has obviously been schooled in the art of hosting. He and his staff were extremely attentive and the personalized service was unparalleled during our tour of Southwestern Uganda. The accommodations consisted of thatched-roofed cabins whose tent netting unzipped to the view of Queen Elizabeth National Park from the height of the escarpment. There was even a full-sized bathtub in the cottage. The food was decent even for us picky Cajuns and the coffee was strong. The lounge area and pool were spectacular. We would have loved to spend more time there and highly recommend it to those looking for something a little more luxurious in lodging.

Above: Reid and Emma make their way along the path from our cottage to the main lodge at Katara.

View of the sunset from the pool lounge at Katara from the heights of the Kichwamba Escarpment overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda.

Fun at Habuharo

Gus, Emma, and Annie swimming in the chilly waters of Lake Bunyonyi.

Canoeing in a dug-out canoe.

Posing in front of Heritage Lodge landing, Habuharo Island.