Girls at the Stipp Hotel, Kigali

Girls at the Stipp Hotel, Kigali
Having a drink at the Stipp in Kigali with the "Thousand Hills" as background.

Saturday, May 7, 2011

The Kichwamba Escarpment


Visited Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda over the long Easter weekend. Spent 2 nights there which wasn’t nearly enough, but had to return for Reid’s work and the kids’ school. The kids had two weeks off prior to Easter while the Rwandans were commemorating the 1994 Genocide. So, only Good Friday was allowed for Easter break.

Had to cross the border and drop $50 USD per person (even the kids) for a single entry permit. The border procedures themselves were risible to say the least. We asked of several people what the process entailed and managed to get ourselves through to the other side. On the way back, though, we were informed that we had skipped a step upon original entry at customs regarding the vehicle. The gatekeeper, who was attired like any ordinary Joe was hesitant to let us through. He sought advice from 5 gentlemen, also dressed like ordinary Joes, seated in plastic garden chairs reading the newspaper outside the Ugandan customs office. They seemed to concur that these stupid muzungu just didn’t know any better and could be allowed through since the form in question wouldn’t be needed on the Rwandan side. Mind you there is no posted signage about what steps are required and we read nothing in regard to this in any of our guidebooks. We just smiled frequently and apologized profusely even though it was in no way our fault. The most ludicrous part was the gate passes we were issued that were written on scraps of paper torn out of an exercise notebook—these were presented to the guard at the gates so that he could be assured that we had gone through immigration. Well, let’s just say that it was a far cry from Immigration at the Atlanta airport!

Queen Elizabeth Park was an absolute delight to visit. Part of the Western Rift Valley, and nestled near Lake Edward and the Rwenzori Mountains, the park is host to elephants, hippos, gazelles, a wide variety of birds and lions which can be viewed up close and personal. Thanks to our intrepid guide, Mathew, we even managed to spot some tree-climbing lions as well, unique to this part of Africa.

Knowledgeable, friendly and jolly, Mathew got just as excited as we did every time we spotted a group of elephants or a pride of lions. He was hanging out of the car windows, snapping away with the photos just as we were despite having grown up here and having been a guide for many a year. He was truly a joy to spend our day with. He can be contacted through the Kingfisher or via the following mobile numbers: (256) 0773241474 or 0702148424.

We stayed at the Kingfisher Lodge high on the Kichwamba Escarpment where the view over the park and lake clear to the mountains is unobstructed and simply breathtaking. Even the kids were impressed with it. Of course, the series of tiered pools of varying depths dug out of the hill side didn’t hurt either. The rooms consist of circular thatched roofed huts that are adequately furnished with a sitting room between the two bedrooms of the family suite. It certainly wasn’t one of the most luxurious places we’ve ever stayed at, but with the friendly, courteous staff, the inclusion of both breakfast and dinner in its reasonable price, the Kingfisher definitely gets our unequivocal endorsement.

The whole family agrees that a return trip to Uganda is definitely in order. We hear that one can eat crawfish at Lake Bunyonyi---so we figure as displaced Cajuns it’s our duty to go and partake!

Pictured above: kids at the edge of the Kingfisher terrace atop the Kichwamba Escarpment overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park.

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