Girls at the Stipp Hotel, Kigali

Girls at the Stipp Hotel, Kigali
Having a drink at the Stipp in Kigali with the "Thousand Hills" as background.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Too much partying


I looked at the blog yesterday and noticed that it’s been an entire month since I last posted an entry. For shame. We’ve been a bit busy as of recent. We’ve gotten into a routine in sync with the rhythm of the kids’ school. We’ve also been doing a lot of partying!

First, our friends the Magruders, the ones we chased down because of the LSU sticker on the back of their car, hosted a Louisiana Mardi Gras party. Ashley had everything beautifully decorated and served Gumbo, King Cake, and Hurricanes. Gus got the baby in the men’s cake and was announced as King of the Mardi Gras. Except for the electricity being out, it was quite nice.

The Tulane office also hosted a Mardi Gras party on the Lundi before. No Gumbo, but quite nice just the same. One of the ladies that works there but is from Pennsylvania told us that we needed to pace ourselves with all of this Mardi Gras business. Shoot if she thinks two parties is a bit much, she’d never make in New Orleans!

Saturday, our neighbor hosted a traditional “introduction” festivity for his younger sister. This is a traditional ceremony wherein the fiancée’s family comes together with the boy’s family and decide on a bride “price”. The price is negotiated in cows. There’s a lot of back and forth banter as the families are seated opposite each other across a divide that receives the couple once negotiations are completed. It’s a long drawn out process. Since the proceedings started 2 hours late, the kids and Reid got tired and went home, leaving me to save face with the neighbor. All of the proceedings took place in one of the native tongues of the region. Since the boy’s family is from Uganda, I think much of it was in a Ugandan tribal language. Apparently at one point during the banter from the boy’s side, I got offered up as the “bride”. Of course, I didn’t exactly understand what was going on, but being the only Muzungu in attendance, I think it was a way to honor my presence. I’m not really sure. In any event, that should teach Reid to leave me alone at one of these functions again.

During the intervals between all of the talk, there was some very interesting entertainment. Traditional dancers and drummers performed in a variety of costumes. There was a performance of what I understood to be the traditional “cow herders” song that was received with much acclaim by the audience. The fiancée and fiancé were finally presented toward the end of the ceremony in a magnificent parade of costumed dancers and drum music.

Many gifts were given, but not to the couple. The bride’s family was regaled with such presents as a generator, cases of bottled water, a framed photo of the Ugandan King, a number of suitcases, and a rocking chair for the bride’s father. In this case, since the father is deceased, Edward, the older brother (& our neighbor) was the recipient of such a magnificent gift. The best though was reserved for last. The boy’s family had brought live chickens for each of the girl’s “brothers” which were presented for everyone to see. The rooster which had been penned up in a cardboard box the whole length of the day, let out a mighty crow to the great delight of the crowd.

The whole affair was concluded with a candlelight buffet spread. I made a quick exit after that because I had already spent 6 hours there, but the party continued well into the night with dancing. Besides, I was afraid I might get carried away as someone’s third wife or some such…..

All in all it was a beautiful ceremony filled with lots of tradition that was a treat to witness. Our neighbor was very gracious to have invited us and was very attentive to making us feel welcome.

Pictured above: the happy couple, Béatrice and Andrew, sitting center

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