Girls at the Stipp Hotel, Kigali

Girls at the Stipp Hotel, Kigali
Having a drink at the Stipp in Kigali with the "Thousand Hills" as background.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Nyungwe Accommodations


In our ignorance, we were unaware that options existed for accommodations near Nyungwe. The guidebook we purchased to help us navigate Rwanda is dated by a couple of years and one would think that the info contained within ought to be fairly accurate, but Rwandan businesses and enterprises seem to be springing up before our eyes hence the disconnect between reality and the written word. But I digress. We had already made reservations and were committed to Nyungwe Forest Lodge before we learned there were much cheaper options. Nyungwe Forest Lodge is managed by Mantis Group, a subsidiary of Dubai World (a Saudi outfit where money just flows freely out of the desert…) so to say that it was expensive is to make a gross understatement. In fact, I am embarrassed to have spent that sum of money in a country where the average per capita yearly income is no doubt quite a bit less than what we forked out for one night.

In all fairness, however, the lodge was absolutely gorgeous and serene. Situated in the heart of a tea plantation, the “chalets” overlook the forest on one side and the tea plants run right up to the door on the other. The staff is extremely attentive and will attempt to meet any and all needs even to the extent of placing the napkin in guests’ laps at mealtime.

The interior of both the lodge and the “chalets” were gorgeously decorated and exceedingly comfortable. All of the meals and drinks were included in the cost of the room, however just as in Namibia, guests are charged on a per person basis. Aside from the view and the idyllic setting, the other attraction was that a troop of monkeys made their hangout in the trees behind the chalets. We got a great view of them foraging on the evening of our arrival as we made our way back from the pool to our room. Room is also quite an understatement; ours was a suite with 2 bedrooms and an adjoining salon. All of the furnishings and décor were very well appointed and of the greatest comfort.

It was truly a grand experience that we’re glad we had the opportunity to enjoy, however, we found that all of the attention was a bit over the top, being quite unused to having people wait on us hand and foot. Invariably we had to compare this lodge experience to those of Namiba and we found that although beautiful and well-serviced, Nyungwe lacked the charm and quirkiness of Roy’s Camp or the personal touch of eating dinner and being taken on a game drive by the owner of Ndovu in Nambia’s Caprivi Strip. We’ve just been terribly spoiled, haven’t we?

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